Popular Antique Jewellery Styles and Their Characteristics

Antique jewellery is a reflection of the artistic and cultural influences of its time. Each era has produced distinct styles, materials, and craftsmanship that make antique pieces unique and highly sought after. Whether you’re a collector, investor, or simply an admirer of historical jewellery, understanding the different styles can help you appreciate their beauty and significance. This guide explores the most popular antique jewellery styles and their defining characteristics.

1. Georgian Jewellery (1714–1837)

Characteristics:

• Handmade craftsmanship with intricate metalwork.

• Use of natural motifs such as flowers, leaves, and birds.

• Closed-back settings to enhance gemstone brilliance.

• Popular gemstones: old mine-cut diamonds, garnets, emeralds, topaz.

• Often made of high-karat gold and silver.

  
  

2. Victorian Jewellery (1837–1901)

The Victorian era is divided into three periods: Early (Romantic), Middle (Grand), and Late (Aesthetic), each with distinct styles.

Early Victorian (1837–1860):

• Nature-inspired designs (serpents, flowers, hearts).

• Use of coloured gemstones, including amethyst, turquoise, and garnets.

• Intricate engraving and repoussé work.

Middle Victorian (1860–1885):

• Mourning jewellery with black enamel, jet, and onyx.

• Symbolism: lockets with hair compartments, portrait miniatures.

• Heavy, bold gold settings.

Late Victorian (1885–1901):

• Lighter, more delicate designs.

• Increase in diamonds and pearls.

• Introduction of star and crescent motifs.

  
  

3. Art Nouveau Jewellery (1890–1910)

Characteristics:

• Inspired by flowing, organic shapes and nature.

• Use of enamel work (plique-à-jour, basse-taille techniques).

• Common motifs: dragonflies, peacocks, flowers, and female forms.

• Soft curves, asymmetrical designs.

• Popular materials: opals, moonstones, and amber.

  
  

4. Edwardian Jewellery (1901–1915)

Characteristics:

• Delicate, lace-like filigree work.

• Platinum and white gold became popular.

• Diamonds and pearls in refined, elegant settings.

• Bows, garlands, and floral motifs.

• Milgrain detailing to add a soft, intricate texture.

  
  

5. Art Deco Jewellery (1920s–1930s)

Characteristics:

• Geometric patterns and bold, symmetrical designs.

• Influence from Egyptian, Asian, and Aztec art.

• Use of contrasting colours (black onyx, jade, coral, sapphires).

• White gold and platinum settings.

• Emerald-cut, baguette, and brilliant-cut diamonds.

  
  

6. Retro Jewellery (1935–1950s)

Characteristics:

• Bold, sculptural designs with a Hollywood influence.

• Rose and yellow gold dominated due to wartime platinum shortages.

• Large, chunky gemstones such as citrine, aquamarine, and rubies.

• Ribbons, bows, and oversized designs were common.

  
  

Conclusion

Each antique jewellery style tells a story of its era’s culture, fashion, and craftsmanship. Whether you prefer the romance of Victorian lockets, the elegance of Edwardian filigree, or the boldness of Art Deco, antique jewellery offers timeless beauty and historical significance. Understanding these styles helps collectors and enthusiasts make informed choices when buying or admiring these extraordinary pieces.